Foundation for garment coats and method of making the same



FOUNDATION FOR GARMENT COATS AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed April 2, 1948 P. CIPKAR April 24, 1951 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR. Pazd CL m p/zar;

April 24, 1951 P. CIPKAR 2,550,532

' FOUNDATION FOR GARMENT COATS AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME v2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed April 2, 1948 INVENTOR.

Pazd 5 mm; BY

rial employed in conditioning the material shown in Fig. 2 for the application of the remaining parts of the corresponding arch-shaped structure;

Figs. 4 to '7 inclusive show in plan view reenforcing pieces of resilient material to be applied to the material shown in Fig. 2 and in the order of said figures, in building up the corresponding arch-shaped structure;

Fig. 8 shows in elevation a piece of binding material for application to the built-up archshaped structure to hold the parts thereof in desired form;

Fig. 9 shows in elevation a piece of protective material for application over the built-up archshaped structure when the latter is secured to the basic material illustrated in Fig. 1;

Figs. 10 and 11 are detail views illustrating the preparation of parts of the basic material shown in Fig. 1 before the arch-shaped structure is applied thereto; 7

Fig. 12 shows in a view similar to Fig. 2, the preparation of the main piece of the arch-shaped structure for receiving the re-enforcing pieces of said structure illustrated in Figs. 4 to 8 inclusive;

Fig. 13 shows in elevation the main piece of the arch-shaped structure shown in Fig. 12, with the re-enforcing pieces shown in Figs. 4 to 7 inclusive applied thereto; 7

Fig. 14 shows in a view similar to Fig. 13 the structure thereof with the binding member illustrated in Fig. 8 applied thereto;

Fig. 15 shows in a view similar to Figs. 1 and 14, the application of the structure shown in Figs. 14 and 9 to the basic material shown in Fig. l; and I Fig. 16 is a diagrammatic elevational view to an enlarged scale of the right hand arm hole of the foundation liner made of the parts above described with the protective member shown in Fig. 9 removed for the sake of clearness.

Similar numerals refer to similar parts throughout the several views.

As shown in Fig. 1, the basic material, for example tailors canvas, used in making the right hand half of the front of the interior foundation is viewed from the back or rear of the wearer and is shown in its out condition to fit the wearer before being given final form. The left hand half of the front portion of the foundation is the same as shown in Fig. 1 with the exception that the parts thereof are reversed. In Fig. 1, the outer line II, II of the basic material H] is adjacent the outer edge of the lapel and cut for a coat of the double breasted type, the lapel point being at 12 and the curved line 13 extending around the base of the collar to a projecting point is which reenforces the back portion of the collar by engaging the remaining portions thereof illustrated in broken lines at 15. The curved edge l6 extends from the collar portion downwardly on the back of the user to a point I! which in the completed interior foundation liner is at the arm pit of the user; the line I8 in that condition. constituting the arm hole of the basic fabric Iii. From the bottom of the arm hole of the basic fabric, the curved line 19 extends from the arm pit of the arm hole to the side of the coat and so to the bottom thereof, the lower end of 'the basic fabric being broken away to'indicate its applicability to coats of different lengths.

The broken line 20 is the fold or break line of the lapel and the broken line 21 is the line of the basic material resting under the shoulder seam in the completed coat. For the sake of brevity,

in the following description, as well as in Fig. l, the broken line 2| will be referred to as expressing the direction of the shoulder seam although there is no corresponding scam in the material illustrated in Fig. 1 or in the other parts of the foun dation liner, the line 2! being for reference only in suitably applying the remaining parts to the basic material I0.

Where the basic material shown in Fig. 1 is used for a single breasted coat, the material is cut back further as shown by the broken line 22.

In order to shape the basic material ii) to the wearer of the coat, said material is provided with VS 23, 24 and 25 and darts 2S and 21, which, in preparing the basic material 13 to receive the arch-shaped structures, are sewed as shown in Figs. 10 and 11 at 24a and 23a, to accomplish Which, the Vs 23 and 25 and the darts 25 and 2? have their edges sewed together as illustrated for the V 23 in Fig. 11 at 23c, which shortens the break line 20 of the lapel, produces the desired chest fullness of. the fabric Ill and swings the lower end of the arm hole line l8 under to fit the arm pit of the wearer. In so preparing the basic material the'V 2 3 is opened substantially as indicated at 24a in Fig. 10 and has its edges sewed to an insert or tape 28 in order that, the point I i may be swung around under the arm hole and substantially to the arm pit of the wearer, when mounting the completed foundation liner to the interior of the garment.

In proportioning the arm hole [8 and corresponding shoulder portion along the line 2! of the basic material Ill, due allowance is made for the amount of freedom of movement that the finished coat must afford the wearer thereof to suit his requirements. In the event that he requires the shoulders of the garment to be squarer than aiforded by the construction so far described, the arm hole 18 may be provided with a further slit 29 which is opened and provided with a suitable re-enforcing member or tape, similar to tape 28 sewed to the edges of said slit in a manner similar to that shown in Fig. 10, which has the effect of raising the shoulder point of the garment at the arm hole portion of the seam line 2|.

In making the arch-shaped structure to go with the basic material Ill shown in Fig. 1, a main or supporting piece of resilient sheet material 36 shown in Fig. 2 is prepared having a shoulder seam line 3|, an arm hole edge 32 and slits 33 and 34, the'piece 3U being sufiiciently narrower than the corresponding portion of the basic material 10 tonot interfere with the lapel and collar of the coat. While the material of the piece 33 may be any material of sheet form having the requisite resilience, it is usually made of resilient fabric, for example hair cloth in which the hairs of the cloth extend in the direction of the double headed arrow 35. In preparing the piece 3!! for use and to receive the remaining parts of the arch-shaped structure, it is treated as shown in Fig.12, and as there shown the slit 33 is opened substantially as shown at 33a and held in open condition by the piece of resilient sheet material 36 shown in Fig. 3 which preferably consists of resilient fabric, for example hair cloth having the hairs thereof extending in the direction indicated by the double headed arrow 31. The slit 33 is expanded so that its outer points rest at the notches 38 and 39 in the piece of stay material 36 in which position the parts are securely stitched together. The preparation of the main piece 3! also includes overlapping the lower right hand portion of that piece at the slit 34 until its upper corner cwsogsem is'anslinerwitli-ztm notch 40' imwhichrpositi'on the overlappingflpartiis securely-sstijtched aoaheaot:

tom sortionor themain piecesue 'It willib'e mnderstoo'dfithat the structures illfis trated in FigurSii-13,-.14 and ar sh part ever he". main1piec3 and hereinforci'ng pieces- 4| 425 43 and-144' 'are urved"tojform'- the arch shapeestructure reaehin fro structure has'zlin'reality substantiallythe urv'ature fromifront to rear thatit -has"in tl-ie firfisl ie'ol stressed and neutral condition-.

str-ucturiei'hastbeen prepare se described; the reenforcingzpiecesl I H E- 43 a ndilk shown in Figs;

4 to :7 a' inclusive'z areiisuccessively appliediito the under or: shoulder surface of the main 'piecefiw,

shoulder than-" th other i and in tlfe oftler name piece ssubstantiall smaller iif are thanthe main: p ece -to= the 'erid th'at h'eia'i structur may' be rirogre sivefi en mew-fro the ne'ck:ofi'thei-Wearer the shoul'd p6" the-foundation liri'ef' whi'o ni hole' r he 'cD hem-amines ismanne v I f turemis progressively stiffened outwardly Iromiitlie neck=: ortidrro'fi-thawea'rer that fits shOuIderLpOrtid is t1 effectively" support: a par cda't and that' this weig-ht carrying as by areh=shapedzstructnreidecreases progfessively 6'- re 'sh'aped He rer wardi Ethe'vneok 10f the zwearerzr Th structure thus constitutes a'rr eff ee Ve supporting a hand iside of thescoat and ii trans weightto 'the portion of n houllii blaiiewliich istadja'cent th'e neck of th' we getherza'sta-bovedescribed n l 3 oaibinderd pie'ce of resilienti sheet' materia for; exam ple hair cloth, is the L composite strut-tun and securel r'ont to rearover clothing dummy shaped l. 5 vlope'd o plan views fosak or 'clearnessin the-r: corresponding: shape sti u'etfirei how scribed." r result t'ofri forming :the 'a'rch shaped strue turefz' as a: dscribeda torrthe:desired curvature and. I

linea'offithe bindingepieceiianis :shown ate: and" hair cloth is 'zus'edato makezithe *piece 153, the fi-hairsatliereof-l' preferably ifixtndiin the dime-.-

whet

tion oftheidoubl'e?headedsarrow:55.

The; result:of:imakihgiithezarcheshapedistruc tureias-rdescribed', iisrlthat zth'ecresenforcingpieces 4| ,"142, 4'3-iandc44isand;:theibincler c iecea53 are held infiicurved andsstresse'd-c condition; nithezl archshaped structure; with an:'internalrioimr and, =size- 10 that5 giVGS YtHE IGQSiIBdf .playrr'betweenthe inner surfacez-i ofz the'w=arch.--shap'ed structure and the shouldereofi th'GfTCO atiwearer,?and:that: also affords a support ifOi' the sbasica-fabric hat? the shoulder that will'givewthedesired shouldefcontour to the i5 coat mademntheifoundation described: 1 Itwillbe appreciated that the stressed conditiom-of1the pieeesnM ,i42; 43;a44cand s53 imparts imuch; more stabilityzand loadisustainingziabil ity toitheabarcb The ar'ch-fshaped sstructure :described is then appliedunder-=5thewshouider portion offthe basic fabrickl 0 withatheseam-rline 3 l under-the seam line :21 and .with':the.1arm hole :edges of the basic '25 a fabric l0 and main piece 30 substantially in-a1ine= ment with each other, in which position thaarchshapedzistructure 'is"securely :stitched:- to-the main f abrie-l Wand aprotective -piecez-of rfabric 56- is preferablwapplie'd under the-:arch sh'aped struc- 30 turei'ancl" also-stitchedtoisaid-stru'ctureand:to said basics-fabric I Bias indicated"; to covei' the. .edges'of the chair -:cloth where: itzis uusedv asith r-material ofalthe parts ofthe :ai'cheshapedstructurei as:de'-

-' Asr holding: itizin :"that Epositiorrin the manner "describedjts 1 application to :the rmain fabric 'l 0 correspondingly shapes: the shoulder portion of the main fabric andicin-tithat-imanner insuresttheisups port of the 'ou'teh goods" of the coatIto-give'the shoulders? thereof the shape: andproporti'ons desired, atithe same time thatthe desiredireedom of splay between" the arch-shaMd strueture and the" 'shoiild'er of the wearer is provided for; with= out the use of padding materialof any kind; This'linsures stabilityi'of-form of the shoulders of the coat regardless of' the typel of? coat; and fl whatevermay be the requirewform" of the shoulders ofthe coat;and whatever may be the required amount off're'edom between the archshaped structures-and the shoulders- 0f the coat wearer;- As a resultj the-formofthe coat ismaintain'd. regardless of subsequent cleaning and 43' amd 44 are gzapressing operations 1 and 1 regardless-* of 5 Whether coat hangers ot the sam'eform asthecoat shoulders-='are* used to' supportthe coat when it" is not being'worm The invention-is applicableto coats of all difhap'ed mseferent types andwh'ether 'thecoats areintended for men or women For very light suitcoats, for example for- 'summ'er wear, the amount of reenforcing =mater ial required in the arch-shaped structure isa minimum, and iii-many cases'the for-somewhat heavier coats it becomes desirable tovuse in. the arch shapedstructure the ieces 33241 and- 42 -'-for--heav'y suit coats'and for overpieces described;

In I' ig.-' -16=-I'-i1lustrate schematie'ally the -rela on ofl'the part's of the areh shapedstructure to each other and to the basic material it) in the finished garment, by showing in that figure the right handarm hole of the garment with the sleeve removed, and with the protective'piece 55' removed for clearness. In this figure the outer goods of the garment is indicated at 51 and is shown as extending entirely around the arm hole. Within this, the basic fabric I is shown and inside of the basic fabric l6 and in the order named, the main piece 30, the re-enforcing piece 4|, the re-enforcing piece 42, the re-enforcing piece 43, the re-enforcing piece 44 and the binder piece 53 are shown in substantially the relation they occupy when the completed arch-shaped structure is applied to the basic fabric ID as above described.

My invention includes the above described method of making garment coat interior foundation liners and also foundation liners made by that method.

. While I have shown my invention in the particular embodiment above described, I do not limit myself thereto as I may employ equivalents thereof without departing from the scope of the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A foundation liner for garment coats, including in combination a sheet of basic fabric fitted to extend around part of the neck and over the chest and shoulder and upper portion of the'back of a person and to an armhole of said foundation, a laminated arch-shaped coat supporting structure connected with said basic fabric and extending from adjacent the neck portion thereof over the shoulder point and to the armhole of said foundation, said arch-shaped structure extending under said basic fabric from in front of the shoulder over the same and to the back thereof and providing a substantially loose fit throughout its front-torear extent between said structure and the shouider of the coat user and adapted to support substantially the entire hanging weight of said coat from an area adjacent the neck of the wearer, whereby freedom of movement of the shoulder of the coat user is permitted without corresponding movement of said arch-shaped structure, said arch-shaped structure including a main piece of sheet resilient material curved to said arch shape and held by said basic fabric, and a reinforcing piece of resilient sheet material of smaller area than and fitting the curvature of said main piece and extending around the armhole of said foundation, and means securing together said basic fabric, said main piece and said reinforcing piece and holding the same in said arch form with the fibers of said reinforcing piece resiliently opposing the arch-shape curve imposed thereon whereby said reinforcing piece tends to draw said arch-shape structure away from the shoulder of the wearer.

2. A foundation liner for garment coats, including in combination a sheet of basic fabric 'fitted to extend around part of the neck and over the chest and shoulder and upper portion of the back of a person and to an armhole of said foundation, a laminated arch-shaped coat-supporting structure connected with said basic fabric and extending from adjacent the neck portion thereof over the shoulder point and to the armhole of said foundation, said arch-shaped structure extending under said basic fabric from in front of the shoulder over the same and to the back thereof and providing a substantial looseness of fit throughout its front-to-rear extent between said structure and the shoulder of the coat'user and adaptedto support the majority of'said coats hanging weight from areas adjacent the neck of the wearer, whereby freedom of movement of the shoulder of the coat user is permitted minimizing corresponding movement of said arch-shaped structure, said arch-shaped structure including a main piece of sheet resilient material curved to said arch shape and held in arched condition by said basic fabric, and a plurality of reinforcing pieces of resilient sheet material each of smaller area than and bent to the curvature of said main piece and extending around the greater portion of the armhole of said foundation, said reinforcing pieces having progressively smaller areas than each other and having similar edges adjacent an edge of said main piece extending around the armhole of the foundation, and means securing together said basic fabric, said main piece and said reinforcing pieces and holding the same in said arch form with said arched curve imposed on said reinforcing pieces being in opposition to an inherent tendency of said resilient reinforcing pieces to straighten out, which effect tends to hold said arch shape structure away from the shoulder of the wearer and results in a light fitting contact therewith.

3. A foundation liner for garment coats, including in combination a sheet of basic fabric fitted to extend around part of the neck and over the chest and shoulder and upper portion of the back of a person and to an armhole of said foundation, an arch-shaped coat-supporting structure connected with said basic fabric and extending from adjacent the neck portion thereof over the shoulder point and to the armhole of said foundation, said arch-shaped structure extending under said basic fabric from in front of the shoulder over the same and to the back thereof and providing a sufi'icient non-gripping fit throughout its front-to-rear extent between said structure and the shoulder of the coat user, whereby freedom of movement of the shoulder of the coat user is permitted without appreciable corresponding movement of said arch-shaped structure, said arch-shaped structure including a main piece of sheet resilient material curved to said arch shape and held in curved condition by said basic fabric, and a re-enforcing piece of resilient sheet material of smaller area than and fitting the curvature of said main piece and extending around the armhole of said foundation, and means securing together said basic fabric, said main piece and said re-enforcing piece and holding the same in said arch form with said re-enforcing piece in tensioned arched condition in the direction of curvature of said arch-shaped structure, said securing means including a fabric binder applied to said arch-shaped structure and securely sewed to said main piece and to said re-enforcing piece.

4. A foundation liner for garment coats, including in combination a sheet of basic fabric fitted to extend around part of the neck and over the chest and shoulder and upper portion of the back of a person and to an armhole of said foundation, an arch-shaped coat-supporting structure connected with said basic fabric and extending from adjacent the neck portion thereof over the shoulder point and to the armhole of said foundation, said arch-shaped structure extending under said basic fabric from in front of the shoulder over the same and to the back thereof-and providing a substantially loose fit throughi -out itsfront to rear extent betweert said? struc- 1 ture and the-shoulder f the coat usen-where'by 1 in arched condition by saidbasic fabric; and a --*plurality 'of re-e'nforc-ing pieces --like=----resilient sheet material each-of sniallerarea than and"-=enforcing pieces having--progressively smaller -bent to" the curvature of said main piece -and -ex- -tending -around-the greater'portion ofthe' armhole of saidfoundation; said re-enforcing -pieces having' '-progressivelysmaller areas than- :each

other and having similar-'edgesadjacentan edge' l of-said 'main'piece' extending around the-armhole ofthe'foundation; and meanssecuring together said-basic fabric, said main pieceand' saidre-en- --=forcing pieces and -holding"the samein said-arch "form with said re-enforcing pieces each in -ten 2 sioned arched condition? in thedirection of curvature of said arch=shaped *structure;=-=-said securing-means including a fabric binder-applied said arch-shaped structure-and securelysewed user is-permitted 'withoutq-esultant wrinklingof said arch-shaped structure,--'- said arch'shaped -'-structure including a--main*- piece-of haircloth curved "to "said-arch shape and' -held--in arched (i position by said canvas;-=and a-plurality-= of-"-reenforcing pieces of----hair-- cloth "each of- *smailer area" than and bent te -the curvature of said niain piece and extendingaround the greater portion of the- "arm-hole of said foundation; saidreareas*-than---each-= other and having similar e'dges adj acentan edgeof said-main piece" extending --around the a-rm holeof said fou'n'datiom and ameans securing- *-togethersaid canvas,---said: main 6 piece== and said re-nforcing pieces and holding 'the samein said arch form'with the hairs of e'ach of said=re enforcing-piecesextending in the direc- -=tion of curvature I of said arch-shaped structure and in curvature opposingcondition.

0 1 7-: A foundation liner' for garmentcoatsgin- -cluding in-combination a piece oftai-lors canvas -cut and shaped to" extend around-part of the neck-and o-ver= the-chest and -shoulderand upper --portion-of the baclc-of aperson and to -anai-m 'tosaidmain'piece'and to each ofsaid re-enforc hole Of- Said fOHHGatiORy an arch- -shaped -coat- *ingpieces. v

5.* -An interior foundation -liner for garment coats,*includingin combination a-piece of-"tailors canvas cut and-shaped to extend around part of the neck and over-the chest and sh0u1der-and""3 upper portion of the-back of a person and" to an armhole of' said foundation, "an*"-arch'-shaped coat-supporting*structure of hair cloth-connected -*-with *saidcanvasand extending from-adjacent between said structure and the shoulder of the "coat-user; I wherebyireedomtof movementof' "the shoulder of" the coat user is permitt'ed'-:without corresponding movement of said" arch shap'ed structure, said arch-Shaped'structure including 4 a main pieceof hair 1 cloth' curvedrto said-"arch shape and held in "arched condition byysaid" can- 'vas, and a: re-enforcingpiece' "of hair cloth. of

smaller area? than and'fitting the,""curvaturef"of "saidymainpiece and extending aroundthe arm- 5 holeof said foundation 'and'having its hairsextending in the direction-"0f?said curvaturefand the same in said arch form Withsaidre-enforc- "means securing together said canvas;- saidniain piece "and" said reJ-"enforcing "piece and holding ing, piece in arched 'tensioned condition "the "direction of curvature'of said arch-shaped struc- *ture.

6. A foundation interior liner "for"; garment -supporting structure of-hai-r cloth connected-with said canvas and extending fronr adjacent -the neck portion --thereof-over =the shoulder pointand to the arm hole-oi?said foundation, said arch- 0 shaped structure extending under said" canvas fromin'fr'o'nt ofthe shoulder over -the 'same and to the back thereofand-providing-a-substantially freecontact throughout its front-to rear extent I --between-said structure and" the' shoulder "bf the the rneck portion" thereof over theshoul-der point '35 coat --user wherebyfreedom of movement of the shoulder of the coat user ispermittew without corresponding -moveme'nt:--= of* s'aidarch-shaped structure, -said-arch shaped structure including v a -main-l'piece' of hair cloth curved-to said arch "40--shape and=held in concavecondition by s'aid c'onvasg and a re-enforcing pieceofhair 'cloth of "---*smaller area than and fitting the 'curvat-uref of -saidmain piece and extending 'around thearm hole otsaidfoundation -and having "its hairs ex- 5"*tend-ing--in -the direction 'of said "curvature: and

-means securing together said canvas, 'said main piece and-saidre-enforcing piece and holding the same in said arch' form*with -said-re-enforcing "-piece---all=-'bent --in the direction of curvature of said'-arch'sha=ped structure said securing means '-incl uding a fabric binder"applied-"-to*-theside-bf -said arch-shapedstructure'--"remotefrom said canvas-and securely stitched to "saidycanvas" and to-said mainpiece andtosaid ree'nforcing piece.

8: foundation linerfor garment coatsjz'in- "Ecluding--in-combination a :piecdof tailors "canvas :icut and shaped to-extend-aroundmart of the neck and overthe' chest-and shoulder and upper "portion' of'the- -back of apersonand to an -arm "coats, including'incombination a'pieceof'tai'lors whole-of said'-foundation,-' an-arch=shaped coatcanvas cut ''and shaped to"'extend"'aroundpart *of' the neck and over the'chest and shoulder and 1 upper portion of the'back' of a "personandto an "'arm hole ofsaid'foundation, an" archf-shapitd 'coat supporting structure" of hair cloth con-- nected with said canvas andextending from adijacent the neck portion thereofovertheshoulder :point and to 'the arm hole of said foundation,

said arch-shaped structure extending'undersaid canvas from in front of the shoulderbverl" the plurality of're=enforcing'pieces'of haircl'oth e'a'ch same and to" the back'thereof and providing. a substantially non-hugging loose fit throughout "itsfront-to rear extentbetween said structure ,and the shoulder of thecoat user, 'wherebyfree- *said' canvas" and extending from"adjacentthe neck portion thereof over theishoulder pointiand to the-arm'-' holeof said "foundation; *said arch- *struc-ture-extending 'under said canvas from in front" of the shoulder over thesame"and to the back' thereof; said arch-shaped'istructure including a main' -piece of hair 1 cloth curved-to said "archshape" and .held' :by said canvas; and a 'supporting structure of hair-cloth. connected with of smaller areath'an 'andbent toithe curvature of said mainjpiece iand'rextending around the greater portiomofthe arm hole 'of'said foundati'on; said "rcrenforcing"ipiecesihaving progresdombf movement of'the 'shoulderof"'"the""coat" 7n"sive1y"sma1ler areas'than each other "and'having similar edges adjacent an edge of said main piece extending around the arm hole of said foundation, and means securing together said canvas, said main piece and said re-enforcing pieces and holding the same in said arch form with the hairs of each of said re-enforcing pieces extending in the direction of curvature of said arch-shaped structure, said securing means including a fabric binder applied to the side of said arch-shaped structure remote from said canvas and securely stitched to said canvas and to said main piece and to each of said re-enforcing pieces.

9. The method of making underlying foundation liners for garment coats, including the steps of cutting and fitting a sheet of basic fabric to extend around part of the neck and over the chest and shoulder and upper portion of the back of a person and forming an arm hole; preparing a stiff laminated arch-shaped coat-supporting structure of multiple ply resilient material adapted to extend from adjacent the neck portion of said basic fabric over the shoulder point and to the arm hole thereof and fit with substantial looseness between said arch-shaped structure and the shoulder of the user throughout the front-to-rear extent of said arch-shaped structure; and securely fastening said archshaped structure to the under side of said basic fabric to lie above the shoulder of the user in such a manner that said arch shaped structure tends to maintain its rigidity over said shoulder points to the extent that the majority of said coats hanging weight is supported substantially from areas adjacent the neck of the wearer rather than from the shoulder points, whereby providing for freedom of movement of the shoulder of the user without corresponding movement of the shoulder portion of said foundation. I

10. The method of making underlying foundation liners for garment coats, including the steps of cutting and fitting a sheet of basic fabric to extend around part of the neck and over the chest and shoulder and upper portion of the back of a person and forming an arm hole; preparing an arch-shaped coat-supporting structure adapted to fit in substantially non-engaging contact from front-to-rear around the shoulder of the user by bending a main piece of resilient material to the curvature of said arch-shaped structure to extend from adjacent the neck portion to the armhole of said basic fabric, and by bending a re-enforcing piece of resilient material of smaller area than said main piece to the curvature of said arch-shaped structure, and by then securely fastening together said main piece and said re-enforcing piece with an edge of said reenforcing piece substantially at the arm hole edge of said main piece and thereby holding said main piece and said re-enforcing piece in arched tensioned condition; and then securely fastening said arch-shaped structure to said basic fabric and thereby imparting to said basic fabric the curvature of said arch-shaped structure.

11. The method of making interior foundation liners for garment coats, including the steps of cutting and fitting a sheet of basic fabric to extend around part of the neck and over the chest, shoulder and upper portion of the back of a person and forming an arm hole; preparing an arch-shaped coat-supporting structure having a substantially free engaging contact from front-to-rear around the shoulder of the user by bending a main piece of resilient material to the curvature of said arch-shaped structure to extend from adjacent the neck portion to the armhole of said basic fabric, and by bending a plurality of re-enforcing pieces of resilient material, each of smaller area than said main piece and of progressively decreased areas, to the curvature of said arch-shaped structure; by then securely fastening together said main piece and said re-enforcing pieces with similar edges of said re-enforcing pieces substantially in line with the arm hole edge of said main piece and thereby holding said main piece and said reenforcing pieces in arcuate and tensioned condition; and then securely fastening said archshaped structure to said basic fabric and thereby imparting to said basic fabric the curvature of said arch-shaped structure.

12. The method of making underlying foundation liners for garment coats, including the steps of cutting and fitting asheet of basic fabric to extend around part of the neck and over the chest, shoulder and upper portion of the back of a person to form an arm hole; preparing an archshaped coat-supporting structure designed to fit loosely from front-to-rear around the shoulder of the user by bending a main piece of resilient material to the curvature of said arch-shaped structure to extend from adjacent the neck portion of the arm hole of said basic fabric, and by bending a plurality of re-enforcing pieces of resilient material, each of smaller area than said main piece and of progressively decreased areas, to the curvature of said arch-shaped structure; by then securely fastening together said main piece and said re-enforcing pieces with similar edges of said re-enforcing pieces substantially in line with the arm hole edge of said main piece and thereby holding said main piece and said re-enforcing pieces in arcuate condition, by then applying a piece of binder fabric to the inner surface of said re-enforcing pieces and securely stitching said main piece, said re-enforcing pieces and said binder fabric together to hold said arch-shaped structure in shape to prevent displacement of the pieces thereof from each other; and then securely fastening said arch-shaped structure under and to said basic fabric and thereby imparting to said basic fabric the curvature of said arch-shaped structure.

13. The method of making underlying foundation structures for garment coats, including the steps of cutting and fitting a piece of tailors canvas to extend around part of the neck and over the chest, shoulder and upper portion of the back of a person thereby forming an arm hole; preparing an arch-shaped coat-supporting structure of hair cloth to extend from adjacent the neck portion of said canvas over the shoulder point and to the arm hole thereof with the hairs of said hair cloth extending in the direction of curvature of said arch-shaped structure with a substantial free play contact between said archshaped structure and the shoulder of the user throughout the front-to-rear extent of said archshaped structure; and securely stitching said arch-shaped structure to the under side of said canvas to lie loosely over the shoulder of the user to support a coat made over said foundation; thereby providing for freedom of movement of the shoulder of the user without corresponding movement of the shoulder portion of said foundation.

14. The method of making underlying foundations for garment coats, including the steps of cutting and fitting a piece of tailors canvas to extend around part of the neck and over the chest, shoulder and upper portion of the back of a personnto. formqanzarm, hole; preparing an "arch-shaped, coat supporting structure with a substantially non-gripping fitfrom front ,to-, rear fro i cent,t eneckror to esarm hole s w a .er cll yme din a eam-arci piece of hair cloth of smaller area than said main piece to the curvature of said arch-shaped structure and with its hairs extending in the direction of said curvature; by then securely stitching together said main piece and said reenforcing piece with an edge of said re-enforcing piece substantially at the arm hole edge of said main piece thereby holding said main piece and said re-enforcing piece in arched condition; and then securely stitching said arch-shaped structure to the under side of said canvas and thereby imparting to said canvas the curvature of said arch-shaped structure.

15. The method of making underlying foundation liners for garment coats, including the steps of cutting and fitting a piece of tailors canvas to extend around part of the neck and over the chest, shoulder and upper portion of the back of a person to form an arm hole; preparing an arch-shaped coat-supporting structure having substantially loose fitting contact from front to rear around the shoulder of the user by fitting and bending a main piece of hair cloth to the curvature of said arch-shaped structure and to extend from adjacent the neck portion to the arm hole of said canvas, by bending a plurality of re-enforcing pieces of hair cloth, each of smaller area than said main piece and of progressively decreased areas, to the curvature of said arch-shaped structure with the hairs of each of said re-enforcing pieces extending in the direction of said curvature, by then securely stitching together said main piece and said re-enforcing pieces with similar edges of said re-enforcing pieces substantially in line with the arm hole edge of said main piece and thereby holding said main piece andsaid re-enforcing pieces in arouate and tensioned condition; and then securely stitching said arch-shaped structure to the under side of said canvas and thereby imparting to said canvas the curvature of said arch-shaped structure.

16. The method of making an interior foundation liner or front for garment coats, including the steps of cutting and fitting a piece of tailors canvas to extend around part of the neck and over the chest, shoulder and upper portion of the back of a person for forming an arm hole; preparing an arch-shaped coat-supporting structure for free fitting contact from front-to-rear around the shoulder of the user by fitting and bending a main piece of hair cloth to the curvature of said arch-shaped structure to extend from adjacent the neck portion to the arm hole of said canvas, by bending a plurality of re-enforcing pieces of hair cloth, each of smaller area than said main piece and. of progressively decreased areas, to the curvature of said arch-shaped structure with the hairs of each of said re-enforcing pieces extending in the direction of said curvature; by then securely stitching together said main piece and said re-enforcing pieces with similar edges of said re-enforcing pieces substantially in line with the arm hole edge of said main piece and thereby holding said main piece and said re-enforcing pieces in arcuate position by then applying a piece of binder fabric to the ying.:pieces;and;said binder fabricrtogetherrto hold ..said.;arch:eshaped tstructure in shape and ,to: prevent displacement i'ofz; therpieces;:thereof from each other; and then securely stitching said archshapedzstructure under and to said canvas and thereby imparting to said canvas the curvature of said arch-shaped structure.

17. In an inner foundation liner of the type which forms an integral part of a garment, such as a suit coat or the like, adapted to impart a desired shape and form to the finished garment and over which the exterior fabric of the earment is disposed and secured; a sheet of pliable basic fabric cut and sewn to a desired shape and size for fitting over the chest and around the neck, shoulder and the upper back of a wearer; a main supporting member of resilient sheet material of a small-er area than said basic fabric sheet and adapted to be mounted adjacent thereto, said main supporting piece being cut so that its resilient opposition to bending is exerted along an imaginary shoulder line of said garment running with the normal shoulder slope of the wearer; a plurality of resilient reinforcing members mountable below said main supporting piece in multi-ply relation and having their resilient opposition to bending exerted at approximately right angles to said imaginary garment shoulder line, said reinforcing members being of succeedingly smaller areas with the largest memberbeing mounted adjacent said main supporting piece; a binder member of resilient material mountable in binding relation over said reinforcing members and said supporting piece and having its resilient opposition to bending exerted along said shoulder line similar to said main supporting piece, means for securing all of said resilient materialed members to one another in a unitary arch shaped structure adapted to impart the necessary shoulder contour to said garment, and said shoulder arch structure being adapted to sustain its shoulder contour, stiffness and consequently the smooth exterior appearance of said garment shoulders against substantially all shoulder movements of said wearer.

18. In an inner foundation liner of the type which forms an integral part of a garment, such as a suit coat or the like, adapted to impart a desired shape and form to the finished garment and over which the exterior fabric of the garment is disposed and secured; a sheet of pliable basic fabric cut and sewn to a desired shape and size for fitting over the chest and around the neck, shoulder and the upper back of a wearer; a main supporting member of resilient sheet material of a smaller area than said basic fabric sheet and adapted to be mounted adjacent thereto, said main supporting piece being cut so that its resilient opposition to bending is exerted along an imaginary shoulder line of said garment running with the normal shoulder slope of the wearer; a plurality of resilient reinforcing members mountable below said main supporting piece in multi-ply relation and having their resilient opposition to bending exerted at approximately right angles to said imaginary garment shoulder line, said reinforcing members being of succeedingly smaller area with the largest member being mounted adjacent said main supporting piece; means for securing all of said resilient materialed members to one another in a unitary arch shaped structure adapted to impart the necessary shoulder contour to said garment, and

' 15 said shoulder arch structure being adapted to sustain its shoulder contour, stiflness and consequently the smooth exterior appearance of said garment shoulders against substantially all shoulder movements of said wearer.

PAUL CIPKAR.

16 REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

5 UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 810,382 Grean Jan. 16, 1906 2,140,853 Sandone Dec. 20, 1938 

